Buenas Noches desde Puerto Natales, Chile! Ive done it again - hopped the border and crossed once more into Chilean soil. This time the border crossing went much more smoothly, although Joe did have to throw out two logs of salami while the border guard lectured him on the dangers of bringing such products across the border. Turns out it was actually CHILEAN salami, but we know the rules...
So how did I get here? First, I had a delightful (I kid you not) 28 hour bus ride - no fancy meals or drinks or even toilet paper in the bathroom, but I did get a second story seat, and evidentally it doesnt take much to make me happy on these bus rides! Joe joined me after 4 hours and was not nearly as keen on the 24 hours he spent aboard, but bussing it forever and ever clearly isnt for everyone! Saturday, we arrived in El Calafate, an incredibly touristy town near the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. The town was full of people stocking up on groceries, money (a few banks even ran out and since I arrived with just under $100 pesos I had a brief panic attack while waiting in line and praying that there was still money once it was my turn), t-shirts, and the amazingly delicious calafate ice cream which is made from a berry of the same name. So we did the dance and waited in line at the bank, then waited in line at the grocery store, and then waited in line at the ice cream shop. Joe bought a shirt. Im cheap and dont believe in buying clothes until they are tattered and torn and resemble something you use to wash your dirty car, so I wandered around in search of the cheapest tickets and lodging I could find for us over the next few days. Life here is expensive. I accepted that before I got here. WE are in PATAGONIA after all. It´s far away from everything, and many places draw tourists from all over the world in search of great hiking and incredible scenery, so they certainly take advantage of our wallets. But by cooking all our own meals and staying in the absolute cheapest places I can find, we´ve done alright!
And after figuring out the logistics, we headed aboard a bus to the incredible, jaw-dropping Glaciar Perito Moreno where we first took a boat to see the glaciar up close from Lago Argentino and then headed up the road to look at it from above. The glaciar is amazing. Joe took some photos - ok, a million photos - and Ill post the link for you to see it once he sends it to me. And every few minutes we heard these loud, thunderous crashes as chunks of ice fell 150 feet into the waters below. INCREÏBLE!
Then we were off the next day to the teeny tiny town of El Chalten 3 hours north in the Fitz Roy Mt. Range. We hiked 25 km deep into the valley and up up up to catch a glimpse of Mt. Fitz Roy in all her majesty, but true to form, she stayed hidden behind the clouds. It was a gorgeous, albeit rather windy, hike, nonetheless. As we headed down at the end of the day, we stopped to rest for a bit at a spot where you could view the valley below and it hoenestly looked more like a watercolor landscape painting. It looked unreal. I felt like I was loking at a backdrop that someone painted as opposed to an actual valley in an actual place. And the adorable town of El Chalten (pop. 600) was as cute as a button. If it weren´t for the incessant winds that had me putting rocks in my shoes to keep me grounded, I might move there.
And now we are in Puerto Natales where we just spent the last 8 hours trying to gather everything we need for our 5 day hike in Torres del Paine. And I must admit, Im feeling a little less prepared than I wish - and a little more overwhelmed than I wish to admit. Rain is forecasted for the next three days, and as I came here without hiking boots, I scrambled to find some to rent. They were all too big or too small, so Im sticking with a pair that is a bit too big and a little uncomfortable, but hoping all works out. It´s all an experience, I tell myself. So I best be off to finish packing, eat some dinner, and try to get some sleep before tomorrow´s 6:30 am wake up call. Wish me luck and send sunny thoughts our way - I want to see those amazing towers after all! VIVA!
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