Guilty as Charged

I have a confession to make. Ok, two really.

Number 1. This one has been weighing on my mind. So I will share it with you now. Please dont judge.

Number 1. I. Steal. Toilet. Paper. Im not proud of it. And I dont do it because I get some sort of thrill from stashing a sheet or two here and there into my backpack. I do it out of NECESSITY. Nada más. And I dont steal much - no more than 3-4 sheets each time. But as it is rare to come across a public restroom or bus bathroom that provides TP, in addition to the recent addition of hostels down here in Patagonia charging for TP, I have found this new vice to be necessary for suvival. If Im lucky enough to come upon a toilet that actually provides papel higenico, I stash a few extra sheets in my bag before exiting the toilet. I also have been known to steal an extra napkin from cafes and ice cream shops. Call it a survival technique of the frugal and TP-challenged! Im sure if anyone ever finds my bag and ruffels through it, they will think I have some psychological hoarding problem.

Number 2. The principal reason I am able to write this entry right now. I came back early from Torres del Paine. I went Thursday morning and immediatly began to feel oddly trapped. I cant really explain it. The weather was not as bad as we expected. In fact, we actually had blue sky and sun at intervals - and I as downright joyful at this as the whole morning was cold, wet, and dreary. We didnt see the amazing fabled views of Los Torres (although Joe is still in the park and Im waiting to hear his report as to whether the weather ever cleared up), but after battling the wind to set up camp, we did go for a nice hike to see Glaciar Grey - another of the many many hulking glaciers in this area. The lighting was fantastic and Joe got some awesome shots which I will post once he gets out of the wild and loads them. The wind was incredible. I have NEVER experienced wind quite like it. Upwards of 60-70 mph that several times nearly knocked me over and had me crouching in the fetal position on the ground to keep from flying away. If it sounds like Im exxagerating, Im not. At one point, it was so strong that you could literally sit down into the wind and it would hold you up. And it kept changing directions, so there was no way to know from which direction it would strike you next. Im not much of a backpacker. Give me a good, long, challenging day hike and Im game, add in backpacks, setting up camp, preparing your food while huddled in a corner trying to stay warm and dry, and Im looking for option Number 2. I think (ok, I know) I knew this about myself, but I decided to give the hike a try. So with the elements totally NOT in our favor - the weather was so bad that part of the trail was closed down due to flooding and high winds - I only found myself less inclined to be there and thinking more of the end than the journey in and of itself. So I decided to come on back to Puerto Natales. Part of me felt ridiculous returning so soon (oh how I wanted to return with that feeling of having conquered 75 kms of hard trekking with mystical images of las montñas and glaciars in my head), the other part of me knew - and knows - it was totally and completely the right decision for myself. All I can say is taht Im happy I gave it a chance, but Im equally happy I listened to myself and came back early.

And since coming back I been lucky enough to locate the absolutely cutest family house where I spent the first night drinking pisco sours and chatting it up with the owner - Chila - about life and travel in Chile. I am sharing a room with a guy from Los Angeles who is currently biking from Santiago to Ushuaia. He has already completed 4000km and has only about 800 km left to go. His trip stories have left me paralyzed in awe at the idea of hopping aboard a bike and covering so much ground alone in a place so wild and uninhabited. What an inspiration! There were also 3 Frenchmen doing a similar trip aboard bike - two in their mid-60s who started in Bolivia (that´s really really far North for those of you who havent checked out a map!).

I was supposed to head to Ushuaia - the end of the world - today, but changed my ticket for Tuesday morning as I am rather enjoying this down-to-earth, rough around the edges, port town. And want another day to reorganize my things and hang out with my Chilean host.

Next stop: El FIN DEL MUNDO! VIVA!