La vida Patagonica

Buenas Tardes! First off, I would just like to say that I LOVE this country. I may just have to move here. It is far more beautiful and amazing than I ever could have imagined, and I am beyond grateful for the opportunity to be traveling here. The helpful and friendly people, the gorgeous scenery, and the fact that I am avoiding the short days of winter back home are all enough to make me feel very very happy with where I am right now. (Rene, you are one LUCKY chica to be studying here next year and are in for quite a treat!)

I am currently in San Martin de los Andes - a quaint town sitting on Lago Lacar tucked into a valley in Northern Patagonia near the Chilean border. We biked into town today from our previous dwellings in Villa La Angostura, and as we cruised down the mountain into town, we caught a breath-taking view of the city surrounded by a vast forest and the snowcapped Andes in the distance. As dad keeps saying, it feels like being in Europe - only better as it is far cheaper and the people arent rude (his words, not mine). The town is postcard cute and we hear there is a discoteca, so we expect to be dancing the night away...


We spent the last two days in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi where we had no intenet, no cell reception, no television, NO access to the outside world - essentially my idea of heaven (for a few days, at least)! There is only one narrow one-way road leading into the park, thus there is a schedule so that cars are only going in one direction at any given time - enter the park between 9 and 2, leave between 4 and 7 am. Ane when you are there - you are THERE. All of your attention is focused on this gorgeous place. Our hotel looked out at Mt. Tronador, a volcano surrounded by glaciers. Our first day was spent in transport as we headed into the park and then enjoyed a delicious lunch. After allowing our food to settle we headed to the Black Glacier at the base of Mt. Tronador. I have only been on a horse maybe three times in my life, and I think my horse could tell I was not super into the activity. Either that, or he also just wasnt into carrying me on his back for four hours, as we slooooooooooowly made our way up to the glacier as he stopped to eat every leaf on every tree. The rhythm and pace of our trek nearly put me to sleep a few times, and I kept thinking - horseback riding is NOT my activity of choice. But, alas, we arrived and, oh boy, what a sight! However, as cool as this black glacier was, I found it more disturbing the speed at which the glacier is disappearing. In a few years - if even that long - the glacier just wont be there anymore. Our ride back was a bit more eventful as my horse realized food was his reward for carrying me back to the barn, so we had brief - and I do mean very brief - moments of enthusiasm on the part of my horse that involved trotting along to reach the butt of the next horse, upon which moment he would rapidly stop, take a breath, and begin moseying along once again at his own ridiculously slow pace. I must add, that my experience did not extend to the rest of the group. At dinner that night people were speaking about how lively and animated their horses were - and dad´s horse even lead the pack on the way up. Hmmm.....


The next day was a bustle of activity. First, we hiked some 8 miles round-trip to check out the Hanging Glacier at the base of Mt. Tronador and enjoyed a picnic lunch while admiring the 1500 foot waterfalls and occassional ice falls. Next, I talked dad into accompanying a few of us to the top of an overlook to take in an amazing view of the surrounding valley. While the climb was STEEEEP and left us rather winded, the view was worth it - it usually is, isnt it?! Finally, came dinner, which was an event unto itself. We had an authentic Argentinian barbecue in a building behind our hotel with a whole lamb being cooked over hot coals. Dad finally got to enjoy some of the fabled amazing Argentinian meat we have been hearing so much about, yet been unable to find. This lamb, however, knocked his - and the rest of the groups -socks off. And then, of course, there was much wine and even a rousing game of ping pong to top off the evening. Dad and I were dancing to 80s music and trying very very hard to look like we had some skill as we whacked the ball back and forth. If nothing else, I think we provided a few minutes of entertainment for the others!



Yesterday, I got up early to run before we headed out early on the one-way road out of the park. Our destination was Villa LA Angostura and our activity of the day was mountain biking. Somehow I had it in my mind that this day of biking would be no big deal. Well, I was WRONG. After being sore from horsebike riding, and somewhat tired from the hikes from the day before, my body just was not interested in a hard ride. But that´s what it got! We set off from our new hotel along a very dusty road where we met the first of many long hill climbs. I huffed and puffed my way up the hills with the rest of the pack and felt like I was going to fall over from exhaustion. But we found ourselves on a single track path through this amazing forest and I tried to distract myself by focusing on where I was, not how I was feeling. And with dad whooping and yee hawing from sheer joy behind me, it was pretty easy to find joy in the situation. Not to mention that he would often break out singing "play that funky music white boy" and even "green acres is the place for me" on the more difficult climbs. And upon finally arriving at our destination, we were once again blown away with another amazing view of the mountains while sitting on the shores of a glacial lake and being treated to fresh fruit, wine, and cheese.

Today was a lower activity day as they transported us to two different spots en route to our current town where we could bike downhill. And being no great mountain biker, I have to say that downhill mountain biking is really challenging. And scary. Really scary. I have named myself the pokey puppy of downhill. Bring on the uphill. I may huff and puff my way up, but I can hold my own. Downhill is a whole different story. So I putzed my way down into town while enjoying some breath-taking views and laughing as dad once again "yipped" and "yeehawed" his way down. While he can drive me nuts - and what parent doesnt drive their children crazy from time to time?! - I keep thanking my lucky stars that he is MY dad! Rock on padre!

Now we are off to a tasty dinner in this quaint town. Tomorrow brings not only a new town, but a new country - Pucon, Chile. We will bike/van our way into town. Hasta la proxima....