The Adventure Begins Again - Tales from Peru!!

Well goodness gracious, my how quickly time ha pasado!! When I last wrote, I was in Jackson, MS, hanging out at my dad´s house, walking my smelly dog, driving myself wherever I needed to go, and not thinking twice about paying 3 dollars for a drink or 8 dollars for a sandwich and salad. Well, Im baaaaaaaaack. Happy to be attempting to find my way in the chaos that defines Latin America and back to being my insanely frugal self. After being in Argentina and Chile, I cannot get over how inexpensive everythign is here - even in the ultra-touristy town of Cusco. I ate an insane amount of delicious vegetarian food last night for $1.30. Woohoo!

But shall I rewind? After two more days of lounging on my dad´s lovely porch, hanging out with the various guests sleeping and working at the house, catching up with Kilby and Mary Preston one last time, eating my daily muffins and even an afternoon stint of babysitting - I now think of paychecks in terms of how many days I can survive in South America, and, thanks to the Maloufs, I was just rewarded 4-5 more days of life down here!! - I finally threw my backpack together again (this time I brought only the bare minimum) and was whisked off to the aeropuerto Thursday morning to once again bid adieu to my homeland and arrive anew in Sudamerica.

And this time I landed in a new country - PERU!! And as luck would have it - I sure hope luck keeps staying on my side (currently knocking on wood) - Doctora Blanca Baldoceda, a friend and co-worker from my days at PCC South in Chicago last year, was in Lima and was able to meet me at the airport. And you have NO idea how much this helped calm my nerves. There are many events, situations, etc. on this journey that I find difficult, challenging, and sometimes downright frightening, but nothing insights this fear inside of me like the idea of being one gringa ant among a hustling bustling crowd of travelers, vendors, taxistas at big airports and bus terminals. These are the places where people are most likely to hassle you, rip you off, or - worse - rob you. I like to go into such a situation with my head held high, my eyes straight ahead and act like I know what the hell Im doing. But I usually dont and after a couple of weeks of living the "easy" life in the States where I didnt have to worry about how I was going to get to a particular place, where I was going to sleep, or if the food I chose to eat is going to make me sick (giardia, anyone?!?), I was admittedly a little nervous about resuming my trip. I kept asking myself (as I did back in November), "Can I really keep doing this? Am I capable?" So with all of this weighing on my mind, I WELCOMED Blanca´s offer to pick me up. I only hope I was able to properly convey my gratitude for such a seemingly simple gesture!!

And so I was quickly reintroduced to all that is beautiful, crazy, chaotic, and often utterly amazing in Latin America. And I was lucky (there goes my luck again) to get to spend the first few days of my Peruvian adventure with Blanca and her mom. Blanca´s parents were born and raised in Lima and Blanca herself has spent a lot of time with family in Lima and traveling all over Peru. Most recently, she has taken a 6 month break from work to volunteer in clinics around Peru in an attempt to set up an international rotation for residents at the PCC clinic in Chicago. She is nearly finished with her time here, but has spent weeks living in the jungle and the mountains, meeting with countless doctors, directors, nurses, and seeing patients in some of the harshest environments with a severe lack of resources. The day after I arrived, I had the opportunity to accompany her to one of the poorest neighborhoods in Lima to visit a site where they hope to one day have a clinic. For now, the "clinic" is little more than walls made of woven wood or bamboo perched atop the sand and swaying in the wind - no roof, no resources. A large group of children and mothers met us there to receive toothbrushes and books donated by various organizations. The town has no electricity and water is retrieved from communal water buckets that are filled every few days by trucks traveling from Lima. It is one of the starkest places I have ever laid eyes on. There is not a speck of green in the town. It offers an odd contrast as this dusty, sandy, desert town made of wooden huts dives down into the Pacific Ocean.

And after seeing the poorest of the poor in Lima, we went to one of the nicest neighborhoods to eat Peruvian corn - OMG, it has been YEARS since I have had the luxury of chowing down on the FAT kernals that evidentally only grow here in Peru adn in Ecuador - sooooooo YUMMY!! And later cool off with some yummy ice cream while walking along the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. This time the cliffs were covered in green and the ocean felt much less out of place. And THEN, at 10 PM, we got dressed in our dancing best to go to a Peruvian peña. I know, I know. For those of you that know Spanish, pena (the closest word to Peña) means shameful, but no, no, no, this is a party like no other. A folkloric dance extravaganza. And not one designed for ogling gringos to come and experience a taste of Peruvian culture. This is a nightly happening full of Peruvians themsalves. In Blanca´s mother´s words, Peruvians LOVE to watch and experience their own culture! And why shouldnt they?!? So we sat and watched as a folkloric dance from each of the many many indigenous groups from all around Peru danced in their native dress. And in between each dance, we were invited up to the dance floor to let loose. I cant say what my body was doing looked anyhting like the folkloric dances, but it sure was fun!! I was just beaming all night, so excited to be experiencing something so authentically Peruvian. Oh, and the pisco sour and yummy yummy fat corn I ate during the evening were just the icing on the cake!

Then Saturday, Blanca, her mom, and I headed 4 hours South along the coast to the beach town of Paracas. This town was destroyed 2 years ago as a result of an earthquake and is only just beginning to be rebuilt. Which was evident as we approached driving through the sand dune desert-like landscape toward the water and saw NOTHING. Are we going in the right direction? Or driving through the land before time to a ghost town? Eventually, the tiny town rose out of nowhere, and the next three days were spent relaxing by the pool(la vida es MUY dificil, no'!), enjoying the incredible views of the ocean, hiking among mountainous sand dunes, and visiting an island full of comorants, sea lions, Peruvian boobies, and Humblodt penguins - kind of like a mini-Galapagos. I felt so spoiled the whole time I was there and, once again, am so grateful and appreciative to have been invited to join Blanca and her mom on their mini-vacation!! Thanks again and again to some wonderful Peruvian hospitality:)!

And after so many days of the truly pampered life, Blanca and I said our goodbyes and while she adn her mom headed North back to Lima, I boarded a bus for the town of Nazca - known for the Nazca Lines which I opted not to see. While I waited for another bus to make to 14 hour journey to Cusco, I wandered among the town, ate some tasty fried bananas, and made friends with Roland who inflated my ego by telling me I speak like Im from Spain....hmmm...is he serious or just terribly confused?!?! I hopped on my bus and settled in for one of the scariest rides of my life. All I can say is that I am glad I did not do the ride during the day. The few times I could bring myself to look out the window, all I saw was a very very steep drop. The road climbs and winds its way through the mountains and was barely big enough for two cars and here we were making our way (at far too fast a speed) in a freakin´double decker bus. I just closed my eyes, decided to have faith the guy knew what he was doing - I mean, what other choice did I have?! - and chose to focus on being happy that I CAN travel these roads. Not sure how much it worked, but I arrived in Cusco the next morning in one piece without having peed in my pants.

And now Im HERE - Cusco!! I was here 4 years ago with Victor and did most of the tours que hay - Machu Picchu, Maras Moray, and rafting on the Río Urubamba. So this time around, I have enjoyed wandering along the beautiful, narrow, STEEP, cobblestone roads, exploring the many markets, drinking fresh juices, and attempting to acclimatize. Tomorrow, after doing some hiking to visit some nearby ruins, I am meeting up with a Cusqueño friend whom I met back in Futaleufu, Chile. I assume that since he´s from this here town, he amy have some ideas of places to visit. But, if not, I am content to wander among the many winding streets of this town, ogle at the array of things one can buy at the markets (I keep asking the vendors - "And what´s this? And cant get over the varieties of corn and potatoes one can buy here!), and strike up conversations with locals. One guy invited me to his family´s celebration of the Lighting of the Cross - a city wide religious and cultural event to take place Sat night which evidentally involves much dancing and drinking. Hasta la proxima! VIVA!

Wedding Bells, Thunder Storms, Taylor-oke, and Much Rejoicing - Welcome to the the Taylor Fam, Susan!!

Good Afternoon from Jackson, MISSISSIPPI!! I am sitting on the porch of my dad's house on a beautiful, sunny Spring day. It has been YEARS since I have been in MS in April, and I quite like it. It's warm, but not sweltering, sunny, breezy - the type of weather that inspires one to smile all day long for no particular reason and get a sudden desire to put on a sun dress and go skipping through a field of daisies - Im still looking for the field of daisies, but I assure you there will be much skipping when said field is found!

So first of all, to try to update those non-facebook users on my photos, here is a link to some of the photos I have posted from my last month of traveling (you are going to have to copy and paste the link because my silly self cant figure out how to make it a hyperlink....go figure!) -
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2063091&id=5901703&l=8aa6e2c094
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2063133&id=5901703&l=1dcbca4303

Anyhow, I have enjoyed my time in the homeland so very much. I had a great time hanging out in Oxford for a few days where the weather was equally delightful. My mom and I spent one gorgeous afternoon sipping sweet tea and eating pecan pie in the Grove on the University of Mississippi campus. For those of you not familiar with Ole Miss, the Grove is a very very important place not only in the lives of Ole Miss students, but in the lives of anyone who knows anyone who ever stepped foot in the town of Oxford. There is much good, old fashioned tailgating that goes on here during football season, and as a child I spent many a football weekend running around free as a bird with my cousins and random friends eating hot dogs, potato chips, and chocolate chip cookies while my parents, aunts, uncles, and grandparents listened to the game on the car radio. I never had any actual interest in the game of football and still do not have any knowledge as to the rules of the sport - it still seems like just a bunch of big, burly men ramming into each other as a ball gets passed around the field. But I LOVE the grove - and what a freaking gorgeous place to have lunch with my mom on a sunny Spring afternoon. Almost makes me want to move here - if only the weather in Mississippi could be a year of Aprils!

On Friday, I made my way back to Jackson to meet up with the many family members and friends coming into town for my dad and Susan's BIG DAY. I love family gatherings. I love MY family. We are a diverse group of individuals who live all over the country, but together we can be a pretty fun (and funny) crowd. Plus, throw in the many friends that might as well be family and you have a recipe for a guaranteed good time! Friday evening, my Aunt Claire and Uncle Dick had all of the out-of-town guests over to their house for dinner. I got to catch up with a few cousins and my favorite of all of dad's friends - Scott and Diane! Then the real party began once we got back to dad's house and he and his two brother's broke out into what I have taken to calling "Taylor-oke" - karaoke with a tone-deaf, hip-swiveling Taylor family twist.

And then the BIG DAY! And what a day it was. While Susan got ready at home, my sister, her boyfriend Alex, my brother, his girlfriend Hanna, dad, and I went to Broad Street Bakery (for the third time in two days) for some tasty Catfish po-boys. There is NOTHING in this world that can compare to Broad Street's catfish po-boy and if any of you non-Southern folk ever happen to find yourself in Jackson, MS (not sure why you would!), you MUST go there and eat it. Even Alex who is a bona fide food snob (I say this with the utmost love and respect for the guy), will vouch for the supreme culinary deliciousness of the sandwich!

Lunch at Broad Street - YUM!

Later Annelle, Alex and I took our dogs on a long long walk around the Belhaven neighborhood where my dad now lives. It certainly was not one of those gorgeous Spring days I was boasting about. In fact, it was cloudy, humid, and threatening rain ALL day, but the neighborhood is one of the oldest in Jackson with big beautiful homes that one sees in movies about the old South, so it was nice to wander around admiring all the houses with their big, manicured yards. One front yard even had a chicken coop! While Hobbes (my big Golden Retriever) dragged me from one exciting pee spot to the next, Alex trailed behind us with Murphy whose little Yorkie legs couldnt keep up the pace. Alex later had to actually carry Murphy for the final leg of the journey as he was plum tuckered out from all the activity!

And after quick showers and throwing on a dress and shoes, the real fun began! Two of my best friends from high school - Kilby and Emily - showed up, as did friends of my dad's who I didnt recognize and awkwardly had to say, "Im sorry...who are you?" We marched behind the Belhaven College marching band to the nearby Belhaven fountain where dad proposed to Susan back in August for a short and sweet exchange of vows before hustling back to the house and under the tents just before the rain arrived with a vengeance. And while the band had to call it quits and leave fairly early into the evening due to intense lightening and thunder (no one wanted them to get electrocuted!), the fun continued late into the night as the party was moved inside and the living room became a discoteque. Chris took over as DJ and kept the good times rolling.


Kilby and Emily joined in the fun!


Annelle and I served as one of Susan's many flower girls.


The Bride and Groom!


My sister, brother, and me!


Annelle, Jarratt, and Alex having a grand ole time!


Chris DJs and shows us a few moves of his own.

Sunday morning, Annelle, Jarratt, Hanna, Alex, and I piled into my dad's four-seater car to accompany the happy couple to the airport to bid them adieu as they headed off to South Africa for their honeymoon! And then a few hours later, the five of us kiddos headed back to the airport where all but your truly boarded planes headed for New Haven or Portland to return to lives of school and work.



And so that leaves me here as the lone Taylor in Jackson. But I am certainly not alone. Dad and Susan's house feels like a hostel with the random people coming and going throughout the day as well as the various people staying as overnight guests. It's a big house o' fun. So no worries, dad and Susan, everything is UNDER CONTROL - ha! Have fun and keep on keepin' on! Oh, and Susan - WELCOME to the Taylor family:)!

Two more days soaking in all that is sunny, Spring-like, and Southern and then Im off to meet Blanca in Peru! VIVA!

Back for a Flash!

This is where I have gotten to live and love and learn for the last few weeks!!


Volcan Osorno

Buenos dias desde Oxford, MISSISSIPPI!! That's right, I am baaaaaaaaack. But only for a short while. I got in on Friday morning and will be here for just under 2 weeks before heading back down south to continue my journey. The original plan had me traveling Nov 5-June 30, but I have taken a little "break" to pop in to visit with my mom and attend my dad's wedding - sure to be the party of the century!!

I had a fan-freakin-tastic time traveling with Joe. Really, I could not have asked for a more delightful traveling companion. I even so much as wallowed in the gringoness of the whole journey - speaking English, visiting all the touristy sites (that is when we were actually in touristy places), taking a million photos of everything in sight, and bumping down the road with Joe's rolling suitcase. It was GREAT! The two of us are working on a joint blog entry documenting our journey together (to be titled "All Empanadas ALL THE TIME - Notes on how all of our wildest dreams just KEPT coming true"), so look forward to reading that once Joe finishes up some school work he put off while galavanting around the most amazing place on earth with yours truly!!


Joe and Claudio enjoying a "Completo" in Pucon - Ummm....YUM?!


Soaking in a Natural Hot Spring outside of Pucon, Chile

I dont know how to sum up the last two weeks of my life, or properly explain my feelings regarding my return to los estados. It is so weird to think about how quickly one can go from such different environments and how quickly one can adapt to any given environment. One week ago I was in Osorno, Chile eating fresh bread bought from the corner bakery and fresh fruit bought from the street market in a humble, but bustling town. Then a 4 and a half hour bus ride with breathtaking views of the Andes mountains blanketed in the yellows, oranges, and reds of Fall (AND los volcanes - woohoo! Joe FINALLY got to see them:)!) as we climbed up and then down winding roads took us from Chile into Argentina back to the clean, manicured, Swiss chalet town of Bariloche to visit with Rosario. Then a 2 hour plane ride whisked us to the big, busy, bustling, over-crowded city of Buenos Aires where we wiled away many hours in the fantastic cafes they have on nearly every street corner and walked for hours and hours hitting all the great sites where Evita (and Madonna) stood. (I could not decide who Joe loved more - Evita or Madonna - but either way we stood where they stood, sang our own rendition of "Dont Cry for Me, Argentina," took dramatic photos, and altogether made great touristy fools of ourselves laughing and loving every moment!) And then hopped aboard a US-bound plane to return to the land of Fried Chicken, Sweet Tea, Southern Accents, Stop Signs, Giant SUVs, Bathrooms with Toilet Paper, Stoves that light with the flip of a switch (i.e. no lighter or match required!), and Spring blooms.

And how do I feel? Well, quite good. I am happy to be here. I was truly giddy to run into the waiting arms of my father at the Jackson airport. Yes, I know I am nearly 25 years old, and I know I was only gone 5 months, but gosh darnit, I wanted to act like a 5 year old child and have one of those moments that only ever seem to happen on movies...call me cheesy! I was also super excited to eat a huge MUFFIN at Broad Street Bakery as soon as I got home. Oh, how I have missed muffins and have made a point to eat at least one (or two, or five) each day since I have been home. Dont get me wrong. There is no way to properly explain my delight over the panaderia's in Argentina and Chile and the delicious sweets that one can buy for super cheap there, but nothing compares to the warm, moist, sweet muffins we make here in los estados unidos. Other things that I have enjoyed include: abundance of bathrooms WITH toilet paper, Stonyfield and Oikos greek yogurt, Barbaras Peanut Butter Puffins, hummus from Keifer's, Susan's and mom's home-cooking, throwing tennis balls for my smelly, slobbery, dumb, but unbelievably happy dog, waking up early to exercise with dad (and now mom), catching up with friends in Jackson, and chatting on the phone with Annelle and Jarratt and Rene and Molly. Things I dont much like and could stand to continue to do without for awhile include: driving, doctor's bills, cell phones. I am so happy to be here right now, but am glad my journey isnt over yet.

For now, I am enjoying catching up with my mom in Oxford. I will spend a few days here before returning to Jackson for the wedding festivities. The WHOLE fam is coming, and I kid you not when I say this is sure to be the party of the century. Both my dad and Susan are very social people, know a TON of people, and love to have a good time. So essentially this wedding is a fantastic reason to throw a REALLY BIG PARTY - WOOHOO! The band is called something like Sammy and the Soul Shakers - and no doubt there will be lots of soul shaking going on. VIVA!

A table Set for Two

Buenos Días desde Osorno, Chile! I am back once again after a crazy round-Northern-Patagonia trip with Joe that most people think the two of us are crazy for doing, but neither Joe nor I feel crazy, just happy and perhaps a little out of the ordinary as it is DEFINITELY low season and we are hitting spots that are off even the high season tourist track. Which basically means that we have had more than a handful of meals that are literally just the two of us. And for some reason the music being played over the speakers includes such romantic tunes as "Truly Madly Deeply," "I Want You," and "I Will Love You Forever." It´s been rather amusing - if only they knew how truly, madly, deeply this friendship of ours will NEVER extend beyond just that - friendship!

I dont have much time to give all the delightful details, so for now I will let you know that the two of us are wonderful. Joe is eating ALL the typical foods - lots of frind meat empanadas, barley with rehydrated peaches, steak and cheese sandwiches, alfajores. And I have finally come through to the other side with my illness. And while it has rained nearly every waking moment since Joe arrived (he has come to think I am lying about the volcanoes that I assure him lay just beyond the clouds and fog in the distance that I stared at nearly non-stop UNTIL he arrived), we have seen and done quite alot - walked along the coast in Barriloche, visited the cemetary, river, and walked "The Way of Christ" (it really was WAY more fun than it soudns as I sit here typing it!) in Junín de los Andes, enjoyed a frutratingly slow border crossing, taken a million photos of monkey puzzle trees (and stray dogs that Joe has taken to naming Mitch, Lady, or Griz), walked along black "sand" beaches in Pucon, soaked in natural thermal springs, and walked along the mystic cliffs diving into the Pacific Ocean. And now we are is Osorno enjoying the company and hospitality of Claudio before jet-setting it back to Bariloche (another fun border crossing for Joe to experimentar!) to meet up with my friend Rosario - and stay in her lovely tree house:) - before flying to Buenos Aires tomorrow morning. I know it must seem like an exhausting trip, but it has not felt like that to either of us. And I have been LOVING showing off this amzing area to Joe. And love even more how excited he has gotten over everything we have seen and done - un PLACER!!

Off we must go to keep the adventure rolling. Hasta la proxima (which will probably be from los estados - I fly home for Poppa T´s wedding on Thursday night!!!)...VIVA!

Rolling with the Punches

Buenas Tardes! My what a week it has been! I am still in Osorno, Chile. And while, yes, I really really like the ciudad. And, yes, I have very much enjoyed the hospitality and company of Claudio - my Blues-playing, English-teaching, mountain-climbing host and friend; the principle reason that I have remained here for so long is, unfortunately, a much less pleasant story.

I have actually been quite ill in the past week and spent more than a few days in bed without wandering outside to see the light of day. Before complete bed confinement became necessary, I did get to visit the nearby city of Río Bueno - an absolutely adorable pueblito where I spent a bright, sunny afternoon sitting in the beautifully manicured town plaza writing in my journal, people watching, and enjoying being the only tourist in this very off-the-beaten track town sitting on the pristine river Bueno. But by last Thursday after una visita a la clinica, a 2 am visit to the emergency room, medication, and other fun treatments, I found myself becoming one with the bed, so to speak. And in the midst of my minor medical emergency, I had a LOT of time to think. A LOT.

And in the midst of being frustrated with feeling less than delightful, I decided that if there could possibly be a "perfect-timing" for my illness, this had to be it. I had a safe, comfortable place to stay, a very caring and compassionate host, and no particular place I HAD to run off to until Joe gets here later tonight. So I let myself be. Accepted my lot in life for the moment and attempted to roll with the punches.

I started to get nervous because Joe and I planned on meeting in San Juan, Argentina on Thursday morning - a journey of nearly 2 days from where I currently am. I thought it would be nice to see a new area before taking a 2 week hiatus from traveling to fly home for my dad´s wedding on April 9th. Plus, San Juan is MUCH closer to Buenos Aires than where I am currently stationed meaning it would be far quicker and easier for Joe to bus it there. Well, the situation being what it was, it became clear that I would not be able to make it to San Juan in time. And THEN, Joe discovered the amazing concept of flying domestically within Argentina - brilliant! So now Joe is flying to Bariloche tomorrow morning after spending the night in Buenos Aires with a friend of a friend - gotta love the power of making connections with people! And I will be hopping on a bus in the morning to cross the border back into Argentina and meet him there. And then we will be off to explore Northern Patagonia, visit the family that hosted me in Junín, meet up with Claudio to do some exploring in Pucon, Chile, and who knows what else! And while I won´t be making it to San Juan, I am excited to show off this incredible area to Joe and think it will actually be so much better because he can meet my friends, drink maté with locals, and maybe even have an authentic Argentinian asado - woohoo!

And because I stuck around, Claudio and I were able to take a mini-aventura to the coast where I watched in awe as absoultely HUGE waves crashed into the cliffs and ate a freakin´ deliciosa seafood empanada - YUM! I also got to take a side trip yesterday to the city of Valdivia to meet my friends Ane (the "shiny" girl who I met in Chiloe) and Fito (my host in Llanquihue). I would have missed out on that opportunity had I stuck to my original "plan." So as I lie thinking in bed what good may come of an ill-chill situation, I feel I have found my answer. I am feeling much much better and looking forward to the adventures to come with Joe! And thanks again and again to Claudio for taking such good care of me! Hasta la proxima....VIVA!

Get Rhythm, When You Get the Blues! Or How the Chileans Showed Me a Good Time:)

Buenos Días desde Osorno, Chile! It´s been over a week since I last wrote, and as per usual, my life has been a boatload full of adventure, new faces, new friends, and seeing new places.

When I last wrote, I was biding my time for a few hours in the tourist haven of Puerto Varas until Fito - my new Chilean "boyfriend" - got off work so I could be whisked off to his casa in the totally non-touristy town of Llanquihue - once again I got to be one with the gente...woohoo! - and meet my new Chilean family. When in touristy towns, I have tried to stay off the beaten tourist track by going to restaurants owned by locals and little frequented by the gringo crowd - I LOVE gringos, I really do - heck, most of the time, I myself am a pretty lovable gringa (always gringa, not always loveable...), but while here I want to speak Spanish, meet locals, and talk to them about their work, the town they live in, their lives, their culture. And I find this is best done by avoiding los gringos... When I hang out with other travelers, I tend to become far more closed off to talking to strangers. I actually find it quite challenging to put myself out there and start talking to locals, but when Im alone and there are only locals to talk to, I can choose between being friendly or being lonely. I strive to be friendly and often meet some great people and have some pretty wonderful experiences as a result. So on that "anti-gringo" note, I walked around in search of the emptiest, yet cheeriest (and cheapest) place I could find, and was fortunate enough to spend nearly three hours chatting it up with Pablo and his girlfriend at their small, but cheery cafe as he prepared me a delicious salad and sopaipilla (fried bread filled with cheese). They were just as fascinated with my life as I was with theirs - I like to think of it as Cameron´s Cultural Exchange Program!

And then it was midnight and off to Fito´s to meet mom, dad, and sister Macarena. I ended up spending 4 days in Llanquihue with Fito and his fantastic family! We spent many many hours sitting around their wood burning stove in the kitchen talking about life and the cultural differences between los estados and Chile. And in one humorous moment, Fito´s father did his best to try to teach me how to adeptly light the stove with a match. I drew the line when he tried to get me to start the wood-burning stove. I nearly burned down a house in NC trying to do the very same thing - no need to cause such destruction in the lovely house of my hosts! Sunday, Macarena and I went to the nearby town of Frutillar to wander along the gorgeous beachfront with stunning views of Vólcan Osorno and eat kuchen, a German version of pie. AMAZING! I gave her a mini-English class so she could surprise her English teacher the next day with such exciting phrases as "May I go to the bathroom?"

Monday, Fito and I headed to Puerto Montt, and I must admit that I have to take back my previous statement in which I labeled this a big, ugly town. It´s big, and not particularly attractive, but I liked it. It certainly helped having a local cart me around - the overwhelm factor was significantly reduced by having Fito there, and there was something really nice about walking along the waterfront on a dreary rainy day watching the fisherman bring in the day´s catch and later eating a big piece of freshly caught salmon at a market on the waterfront with the smell of salt and fish in the air. We also trudged our way up a steep muddy hill to get a view of the city and as we arrived to an open pasture high above the city, we were greeted by a herd of grazing cattle munching on grass and blackberries. Seriously, these cows have one fairly well-rounded diet! I had to draw my attention away from the view to snap a photo of one particular cow eating his way through a giant blackberry bush like it was just another day at the fruit and grain buffet!

Tuesday, I headed off on my own to explore Volcan Osorno a little closer up. I took a bus to Petrohue where I hiked several hours on the volcanic ash up to a viewpoint giving a stunning view of the volcano, Lago Petrohue, and the mountains beyond. Later, I headed to the nearby Saltos de Petrohue, a series of waterfalls at the mouth of the river. It was nice to head of on my own a bit and wander around in a relatively unvisited area - the bus literally dropped me off at the end of the road. NOthing between where I was in Chile and Argentina except, you know, the ANDES!!

And then Wednesday, after a delicious lunch, the whole Ruiz family carted me off to the bus station to bid me adeiu as I boarded the bus for a ONE HOUR bus ride to Osorno. It was perhaps the sweetest experience Ive had on this trip. This whole family standing there waving at me and blowing me kisses and making me promise to call as soon as I got there. My OWN family doesnt even drive me to the airport as a group when Im leaving for months...

So off I went, once again, to see a new town and visit a new friend. I was to meet up with Claudio, a friend I met a couple of months back in Bariloche. He lives and works as a teacher in Osorno and invited me to stay if I ever passed through. And after getting myself oriented in the bus station - this is a town of 140,000 people (i.e. - overwhelming bus station experience ensued), I staggered down the street under the weight of my seemingly heavier backpack (when I go back in April, I am leaving everything except the only two outfits I have worn the whole time I am here - one really can live with so little when necessary!), and was delighted to discover that Claudio lives only about a 10 minute walk away from the bus station on a very quiet street - un otro mundo from that of the hectic, bustling bus station.

And here I am! Osorno, Chile. Another one of those "non-touristy" towns that I like so much. In fact, I would never have come here if it weren´t for being invited as Lonely Planet has some pretty dismal things to say about the city. But Ive found it quite delightful. Once I dumped my bag and had someone to point me in the right direction, I had a fantastic time wandering among the many markets in downtown, visiting the big fruit, veggie, fish, and artesan market on Saturday, sitting in the Plaza de Armas next to a beautiful fountain listening to the church bells chime while writing in my diary, heading a short bit away from Claudio´s casa on bike to ride along the rolling hills through nearby farmland, and - best of all - listening to Claudio and his friend play Blues music - that´s right, BLUES - in his living room as they prepare for a show they have in few weeks. Claudio is a very well-rounded individual with a diverse array of interests - he teaches English to pre-schoolers, rock climbs all over Chile, Argentina, and France and is also one of the only people in this area - in Southern Chile, really - who plays the harmonica. He has pretty much mastered playing the Blues on his guitar and harmonica and people all around search for him when they need a harmonica player. So here I am, a chica born and bred in Mississippi - the honest-to-goodness Home of the Blues - listening to renditions of Blues greats by the likes of Muddy Waters and Ted Hawkins, among many others, in Osorno, Chile - incredible! Not only that, but he also serenaded me with Tom Petty and Cat Stevens - my own private folk/rock concert - woohoo! Nothing like a good dose of some of your favorite music from the homeland to make you feel all warm and cozy (and perhaps a little homesick)!

After several days of exploring Osorno, Claudio and I headed out together to nearby Parque Nacional Peyuhue where there are several natural hot springs tucked into the side of the Andes near the Chile-Argentinian border. We meandered our way through a gorgeous forest with giant trees that surely rival some of those in Joyce Kilmer in NC (i.e. really really big around!). I took the opportunity to monkey around a bit feeling like a kid in a jungle gym climbing up the trees and exploring the cool nooks and crannies created by the roots and trunks. And after a somewhat steep climb, up a we were rewarded with an fantastic panoramic view of the river valley below and the Andes all around us. And once again I felt this overwhelming sense of happiness at the opportunity to lay my eyes on such beauty:). Month 5 into my trip, and I continue to feel like I am staring at a painting someone has presented before me. This canNOT be real, can it? This place is too beautiful for words. I find myself sitting in moments like this, trying to take it all in, wanting to think of nothing more than the place where I am, this moment. I know this cannot go on forever, but for now, I want to be here. In the present. I love it here. It´s beautiful. Will I come back someday? I sure hope so. And I hope next time I can share it with Poppa T, or Annelle, or Jarratt, or - who knows - maybe even mom!

So here´s my thought on Osorno, Chile. Lonely Planet has it all wrong. It actually does not get much better than Osorno. Local flavor, great fruit and veggie markets, and within 5 miles you are in the country. One hour to natural (and free!) hot springs, crystal clear lakes, free-flowing rivers, volcanoes, and mountains for trekking all offering incredible views of the Andes al fondo. One (maybe two) hours to the Pacific Ocean. Im accepting offers forany and all jobs as a tourist rep for la ciudad!

Im not sure how much longer I will be here. There are stilla few places around here I would like to visit. But the next stop is Junín de los Andes, Argentina - oh dear, ANOTHER border crossing - to visit Noelia and Tay and pick up some things I left back in January, and then Im heading up to San Juan to meet up with Chicago Joe. That´s right, Im having a visitor - woohoo!! Until the next aventura...¡VIVA!

My Knight(ess?) in Shiny Armor

¡Buenas Tardes desde Puerto Varas, Chile! This morning I woke up to a beautiful clear blue sky day in Castro on the island of Chiloé and was hesitant to leave this magical, misty island - not to mention my cozy hostel with its rooftop terrace where I spent many hours reading and staring out at the bay below. Really, can you beat paying $10/nt for your own room, hot water, and views like that?!? Yet, I decided it was time to move on to a new locale. Time to see a new town. So after a long run along the bay with smells of salt and fish in the air, I packed up my things and boarded yet another bus to yet another new town.

And here I am - Puerto Varas, Chile - a beautiful, tidy resort town on the banks of Lago Llanquique with a stellar view of Volcán Osorno in the distance. After the clutter, noise, and chaos of Castro it feels slightly odd to be in a place that is so neat, clean, and full of tourists. It was kind of fun to feel like I was one with the gente for a few days! After Tuesday´s hike, I spent Wednesday wandering around Castro visiting the fish market where I ate some sort of shellfish that evidentally go for 20 Euros a piece in Spain, but we ate 6 for free! Im not a huge fan of slimy living species making their way into my mouth and down into my intestines, but, hey, when in Castro... I also made my way to various viewpoints throughout the city, and, most exciting of all, found a panadería that sells honest-to-goodness cake. Moist. Sweet. Delicious. I had to stop myself after several pieces! Thursday, I hitchhiked my way around the island to check out a few small towns, making friends with a some locals along the way - one of whom prepared me the most fantastic salad I have had in ages:). The towns are cute, quaint, have ginormous churches, beautiful views of the sea, and not much else. I really enjoyed the tranquility of these smaller towns. Oh, and it´s apple and blackberry season, so you can munch munch munch away on fresh fruit at every turn!

But I felt the need to move on, so off I went with my eye on Puerto Varas - a town in the lakes district of Chile, essentially along the same line as Bariloche. But, unlike Bariloche, other than this hulking, perfectly conical volcano some 60 kms off in the distance, it´s rather flat. My Spanish friend, Ane, with whom I hiked in Parque Nacional CHiloé , headed to Puerto Varas a few days ago. We thought we might meet up here, but she has moved on. However, in her wake, she has left me a whole slew of contacts - this girl is magic, I swear!

Ane is a very shiny chica. Shiny in the sense that she literally "shines." She can talk to anyone. Anyone. And make friends with them almost immediately. After 10 minutes they are inviting her to dinner, to go for a hike, to take off work to show her around town, and/or to stay at their house. I saw it in action on Tuesday and Wednesday and told her I MUST travel with her again at some point in the future to learn just how she pulls this off. She has no fear when talking to people. And is so open and genuine that people immediately take to her. I. WANT. THAT. But in the meantime, I will take advantage of the contacts she makes. And so today, when I got to town, I immediately headed to a local sandwichería in search on one "Fito." Ane befriended him upon first arriving on Wednesday afternoon, and he proceeded to take the next two days off work to show her the area. I went in search of food and some advice as to where to go around here. But within minutes, I was invited to stay with his family and eat authentic Chilean cuisine. Really? Are you serious? I dont know anyone here. I got here 30 minutes ago. And now I have an entire family with whom to spend the next few days. Does it get any better than experiences like this? So Im hanging around town for a few hours until he gets off work and then headed home to meet mom, dad, and his little sister. And who knows what adventures will ensue from there!! One day I hope I can be as generous to others as they have been to me during my time here!

Tomorrow, Im headed to check out some lakes in the area and then in a few days will head further north to meet up with Claudio, a friend I met a while back in Bariloche. Im "contact-hopping" you might say! Until the next aventura...VIVA!